New Zealand: Franz Josef January 22nd-23rd

After a big birthday bash in Christchurch, we all struggled to wake up the next morning for our early departure.  We stumbled to the train station and boarded the TransAlpine--which many travel magazines call one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.  Crossing the South Island from east to west, the trip lived up to its billing as all of us declared we wish we could stay on the train even after four and a half hours.  Once we arrived in Greymouth, we picked up another rental car and a delicious bite to eat before catching Highway 6 down the west coast.  Little did I know I would be driving this scenic route again in just a few short hours.  With the towering Southern Alps, the clear Tasman Sea and a glacier ahead of us, we wound our way to the the town of Franz Josef.  It was only when we unloaded all of our bags, that Megan realized she had left her purse back in Greymouth, our lunch spot three hours away.  I offered to drive back to enjoy both the scenery and alone time.  The journey there proved uneventful--just me and the Greymouth Saturday Night Party Hits radio station.  I grabbed the purse and was back on the return trip in under three hours.  In between jams, I looked down to notice that my gas tank was just over a quarter of a tank full and I should probably start looking for a fill up soon.  I drove through Ross, town of 200ish, where the gas station had already closed up for the night.  Forty kilometers down the road, I hit Hari Hari but the same outcome--gas station closed.  All of a sudden, the panic sunk in as I imagined myself having to hitchhike my way back to the hotel after running out of gas.  The gas light came on outside of Whataroa, an even smaller town, but could only cross my fingers as I entered city limits.  I reached C&J's Gas at 9:00 pm and it too was closed.  Still thirty kilometers away from Franz Josef, I needed to find a solution.  As I looked down the main drag, the only lights were from the pub a few doors down.  I walked in and only two people were bellied up to the bar.

"You look like you need a beer!" the bartender keenly observed.

"Yes, but I need gasoline more." I replied.

"Well, you're in luck mate.  Craig is here!"

"Great. Who's Craig?"

"The owner of the gas station.  I just poured him a cold one, but if you're nice to him he may open it up for you."

The expression on my face quickly changed from disheartened to optimistic.   I grabbed the bar stool next to Craig and started talking, in an effort to strike a friendship.  Within minutes, we walked down the main drag of Whataroa towards C&J's.  He worried that minimal gas remained in only one of the pumps, but fortunately it would be enough to get me to Franz Josef.  After filling me up, Craig offered me a brew back at the pub, but I was anxious to get back, for the bathtub was calling my name.  I made a wise decision, as just moments later flashing police lights came into sight.  With four cars stopped ahead of me, the police were performing random breathalyzers on all passing cars, including me!  I passed the test, thankful that I had graciously declined Craig's offer.  When I returned to the hotel, Megan and Tim were waiting with a glass of bubbly and a piece of birthday cake, which I devoured as I shared this hilarious story.  Never a dull moment on this trip :)

The following morning we awoke to absolutely perfect weather, not a cloud in the sky and warm enough for tshirts, splendid (but not normal) weather for climbing the Franz Josef Glacier.  We arrived and once again got decked out for an activity--a good looking fanny pack with accompanying crampons and heavy duty raincoats.  After a peaceful walk through the valley, we reached the terminal face of the glacier.  Only crampon climbers could continue, as the glacier conditions can change within minutes.  We climbed between enormous ice crevasses, hopped over glacial water pools and studied the tremendous blue of the ice.  During our descent, our guide mentioned to keep our eyes down for an occasional diamond glimmers among the schlitz rocks.  There were many times that required us to stop, as our guide picked up his ice pick to create a walkable path.  That wasn't a photo I would pass up on :) We finished our long walk, just in time for a big lunch and a long afternoon nap.  Another great stop on our New Zealand journey!