Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Sydney: BNY


Instead of BC and AD, I figured Sydney blog entries should logically be broken into BNY (before New Years) and ANY (after New Years).  With the largest New Year’s Eve fireworks celebration in the entire world, it just seemed right. 
Tim and I Xmas Eve
Intermission
We flew into Sydney on Christmas Eve without a cloud in the sky and the sun beating down upon the Christmas trees scattered throughout the city.  We dropped our bags in our sixty second floor apartment and headed straight to the most iconic building in all of Sydney, the Opera House.  Built in 1974 from a Danish architect's winning design, the Sydney Opera House is the only 20th century building on the World Heritage List and stands as the backdrop of the beautiful Sydney Harbor.  We arrived for a quick photo op outside before excitedly entering for a "Christmas in the House" Christmas Carol Concert.  Unlike any other Christmas carol concert I've attended, Australia's top four opera singers belted out the Christmas classics, asking the audience to join in every so often (not enough if you ask me!).  Between the ambiance of sitting in the Opera House on Christmas Eve and the beauty of the music projecting from the stage, my arms were filled with goose bumps and my eyes a tear or two.  It was a truly magical experience! I even learned a new Australian Christmas classic ("Six White Boomers") with accompanying joey hop dance moves that I ensure you will come out at next year's Christmas festivities.  With the idea of snow somewhat unfathomable for the holiday season, the Christmas trees on stage were decorated with white kangaroos instead :)  After an unforgettable concert, we stumbled upon a packed house at a gorgeous Chinese restaurant.  Spring rolls, ginger lobster, barbeque pork ribs, eggplant—YUM, YUM AND YUM!  The night concluded with the kids leaving out carrots, cookies and long notes for Santa; it was fantastic to be around kids for the energized anticipation of Christmas morning. 
Who doesn't wear a moustache for Christmas?
The kids awoke at 6:15, the adults a little later, to open presents and stockings from Santa.  As my stocking stated, I had been good all year and was rewarded with a bookstore gift certificate, new adorable coffee mug, Australia stickers, and a pink cockatoo (my favorite new bird) bookmark!  After a sugar filled breakfast, the next meal was already on our mind as we dressed in our Christmas best and headed downstairs to catch our ride.  A white limo awaited us, ready to drive us to the Berowra Inn, a famous Sydney restaurant only accessible by private boat or plane.  Not only was I introduced to the English and Aussie firecracker tradition equipped with plastic moustaches and corny jokes, but enjoyed a delectable meal in which each course seemed to outdo the prior in both taste and presentation.  With a full tummy, a long walk around the beautiful city followed.  The pictures just don’t do the city justice as Sydney provides 300 kilometers of harbor coast, large lush green parks with water features and numerous skylines.  Although we couldn’t find National Lampoons Christmas Vacation on TV that night, we all changed into our p.j’s and called it an early night!
Sydney Hobart Yacht Race
The holiday events continued as Boxing Day marks the start of the Sydney Hobart Yacht Race, an iconic open water yacht race famous for its 628 nautical miles of grueling conditions from Sydney to Tasmania. We hopped aboard a sail boat for the starting line to watch the 80 plus yachts bust out of the gates once the cannon went off.  We all picked our favorites (mostly based on sail designs) and the adrenaline on our boat, and hundreds of others could be felt in the water! What a rush!  The water resembled an apocalyptic movie as a hundred plus boats chased the boats by water and nine plus helicopters chased by air.  This definitely added to the once in a lifetime opportunities I’ve had the privilege of experiencing on this trip! The thrills keep on coming as I took Tess and Sam to Megamind 3D in the evening, while the rest of our crew was getting evacuated from a bridge climb due to treacherous weather. 
Bridge Climbers
Sydney is world renowned for their outdoor water activities, but also rate right up there with their fantastic museums.  I spent one whole afternoon at the Museum of Contemporary Art completely mesmerized in the two level Annie Leibovitz photograph exhibition and another whole afternoon admiring China’s First Emperor’s entombed warriors at the Art Gallery of New South Wales.  Possibly one of my favorite activities of the entire trip came that night as Hannah and I climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the largest steel arch bridge in the entire world.  We arrived at 6 pm to start our pre climb activities—changing into our climbing suits, strapping on our harnesses, proving our climbing ability in the simulator and taking a necessary breathalyzer.  Starting underneath the bridge, we completed our climb along the outer arch of the bridge on catwalks and ladders until we reached the summit to take in the 360 degree panoramic views of Sydney.  Apart of the twilight climb, we were able to watch the city beautifully transform from day to electrically lit up at night.  I felt just at home, as once people found out I was from Chicago the Oprah climbing stories and pictures came out in full force; as well as gusts of wind that would make the Windy City proud.  The climb is a definite must do in Sydney and one of my favorite experiences so far :)

Outback Livin’: The Great Ocean Road, Otway National Park, The Grampiens, Adelaide and The Flinders Range


Koalas EVERYWHERE!
Prehistoric walks
After an absolute fabulous time in Melbourne, it was on the road again. Literally.  For the next two weeks we stuffed the duffels and rucksacks into the mini van, piled in and discovered Australia's by car! The first three days were spent driving the Great Ocean Road, a stunning coastal highway that all travel magazines insist is one of the most scenic drives in the entire world. With each bend in the road came another stunning view—powerful waves crashing against eroded cliff walls, white sandy beaches, rolling luscious green hills and dense sub tropical rainforests.  After lunch in Torquay, the surfing capitol of Australia, we made a necessary stop at Bell’s Beach—the world’s most famous surfing beach, as all you die hard Keanu Reeves and Point Break fans already know :)  We spent our first view nights at the Great Ocean Road Ecolodge- a solar paneled hotel and rehabilitation center for koalas and wallabies.  Each morning kangaroos greeted us outside our rooms and crested cockatoos sang their morning songs in the trees.  Just minutes from our lodge, we took the eucalyptus and koala lined road into Otway National Park for Jurassic Park type walks, featuring prehistoric ferns and stunning waterfalls.  I strategically wore my Gary Lighthouse Charter School zip up for at the edge of the national park stood Cape Otway Lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse on mainland Australia.  A necessary photo shoot ensued to send to all the higher ups and friends at Lighthouse Academies, in hopes to be apart of future advertising campaigns. 
Twelve Apostles
Grampiens
We continued on the Great Ocean Road to one of its most famous destinations – The Twelve Apostles.  Created by constant erosion of the mainland cliffs, giant limestone stacks rise majestically from the Southern Ocean.  The weather cooperated with a cloudless sky and radiant sun beating down on the remarkable scenery.  As we turned off the Great Ocean Road towards the Grampians Mountain Range the scenery quickly changed.  The stunning coastal views were replaced with sheets upon sheets of locusts- thick enough that many cars were pulling over.  Never have I seen such a thing!  We arrived in the Grampians with a coated windshield of locust guts, a fried locust smell radiating from the car and an unsettling feeling about getting out of the car to face the plague.  No more than a slight annoyance when they touched your skin, we still walked through the national park to catch the breathtaking rocky views, stunning wildflowers and rich Aboriginal culture.  Great views, wild peacocks outside our cabin door, and a bird feeder bustling with cockatoos had us all loving the Grampiens.  But no rest for the weary—we were on the road again! 
Flinders Hiking Partners
Flinders by plane
With one night, an important second hand book store stop and delicious Asian cuisine in Adelaide, we set off for the Outback!  We drove for hours without many signs of human life, towns so small you miss them with just the slightest blink and all our favorite Australian wildlife.  For miles we drove along the desolate highway with our destination in sight, the stunning red of the Flinders Ranges, the largest mountain range in Southern Australia.  More kangaroos than people in sight, trees filled with cockatoos, pink gallahs and laughing cookaburras, gigantic emus crossing the road and endangered yellow footed rock wallabies hiding within the rocks made it clear we were in the outback as we turned onto the dirt road of our villa.  Once under water 600 million years ago, the Flinders Ranges harbor the oldest animal fossils ever found on earth.  To truly experience the view and appreciate the vastness of the various ranges, we hopped aboard a small plane for a scenic flight. The sights included the ABC Range, Heyson Range, Bunyeroo Gorge, The Wilpena Pound, a massive natural crater formation in the ground, and massive salty pink lakes.  The closest town to our villa was bustling Blinman, population of nine people.  Despite the lack of civilization, the local Wool Shed Restaurant provided an eclectic menu, including my first ever taste of kangaroo.  However, the menu at the Wool Shed seemed boring, as the next closest restaurant offered kangaroo, emu, goat and camel for your main options.  With spectacular sunsets setting on the mountain range, it may have been the prettiest view of Australia yet.
My only picture form the Barossa--too busy!
After several days of trekking through the ranges,we worked up quite the thirst for a little red wine.  Perfect timing as our next stop on the road trip of Australia was the Barossa Valley, home of world class reds.  Unlike many people visiting the Barossa Valley, our first stop was at the putt putt course for the first annual Kirley Christmas Putt Putt Tournament.  Don’t let my uncle Tim’s blog confuse you, I dominated :) My putt putt game has improved drastically from my childhood days of shanking the ball outside of the park grounds.  The rest of our days in the valley consisted of wine, pool time, more wine and delicious meals.  Every few feet another vineyard appeared ready to supply you endless tastings; even the hotel provided bottomless wine tastings each and every night.  My love of the reds only intensified in the Barossa—even my first sparkling shiraz (sounds gross, but YUM!).  Although every day felt like Christmas in the Barossa, we were off to celebrate the actual holiday in Sydney!  Sydney here we come :)

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Melbourne: Australia's "Second City"

Beautiful Melbourne from Eureka Tower
With a population just under 5 million, Melbourne is Australia’s second most populous city behind Sydney.  I have always had a place in my heart for any city dubbed “The Second City” and this one was no different.  Voted the “World’s Most Liveable City” by the Economist the past view years, it combines the nostalgia of old cobbled laneways, clean modern architecture, vast open parks within the city and incredibly friendly people.  The extensive city tram covering the metropolis, walking paths along the Yarra River, diverse neighborhoods and numerous city parks add to the features of this great city.      

Aboriginal art paintings
Due to Megan having incredible family connections here in Melbourne, we were able to schedule a private viewing and lecture on Aboriginal art. During our stay in Australia, the kids (and myself) have continued to study the history and culture of the arguable the oldest group of people, the Aborogine, dating back to 60,000 years ago.  As we were presented with an eclectic collection of Aboriginal paintings from different regions across Australia, I was taken back by the intricate detail and the stories behind each of the paintings and artists.   Truly a treat to get the behind the scenes look at this extremely popular and beautiful art movement J  A stop at the stunning Indigenous art collection displayed at the National Gallery of Victoria rounded off our day of Aboriginal art—although I can confidently say it will not be the last of viewing (and hopefully purchasing) of these pieces of work unlike any other in the world. 
Eureka Tower
Our day of Melbourne sightseeing wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere, the Eureka Tower.  Not only does the spectacular view of Melbourne go on forever and ever, but the Eureka Tower offers a unique skyscraper experience for the true thrill seekers in life.  If you choose to go out on the “Edge”, as they’ve cleverly named it, you step into a frosted glass cube just big enough to fit the six of us.  After a quick briefing from an employee, the cube begins to slowly extend from the building until you are three meters removed from the building and still 300 meters above the ground.  A sudden light flashes, creaking sound affects come across the loud speakers and the glass clears up, leaving you with quite the Peter Pan sensation of flying above the ground.  Hannah and I tried our best Superman position as we sprawled out on the ground of the cube, enjoying the stunning view of the city.  Tim and Sam were more of the “death grip on the handrail” type people!  Ultimately, we survived the Edge and were given wristbands to prove it J
For many of our hours in Melbourne, you could find us in Federation Square, an ultra modern city center bustling with people, events, live music and more.  One entire afternoon was spent at the ACMI, Australian Center for the Movie Image, an interactive museum dedicated to film, television, gaming and multimedia art.  After a complete education on Walt Disney and the history of film, I quickly got sidetracked on the old school Nintendo exhibit with the original Mario game.  Although my tech savvy cousins couldn’t get over the bulkiness of the system or the game cartridges, I won some major “cool teacher” points at my ability to beat Mario levels and still remember which tunnels to go down for all the secret coin stashes!
Mornington Peninsula
Melbourne continued to live up to its prestigious awards even once you got out of the downtown area.  Just in the suburbs, Megan’s incredible family welcomed us into their homes for home cooked dinners and a massive birthday party for Sam!  The welcoming festivities continued as one relative took us on a day long journey to Mornington Peninsula, just an hour and a half out of the city, to one of Australia’s famous wine regions.  As the afternoon continued and the red wine kept coming at Red Hill Estates, Stonier and Montalto Wineries, the view just seemed to get prettier and prettier! 
Sadly it was our last full day in Melbourne; a stop along this trip that went much too fast.  If you don’t believe me or the Economist on just how fantastic Melbourne is---listen to Oprah!  The Big O seems to be following us around Australia, Melbourne being one spot we shared together.  She drew quite the crowd in Federation Square and raved about the beautiful “Second City” of Australia.  We are headed out of the city life and onto the famous Great Ocean Road J

Australia's "Sunshine" Coast

Stunning Lake McKenzie on a clear day :)
Sunshine Coast you say? Yes, please!!  After weeks of being immersed in the wettest November in Australia’s history, we were ecstatic to arrive in Brisbane on the famous Sunshine Coast.  Ask any Aussie you meet and they will tell you that December on the Sunshine Coast is simply the best time to visit—beautiful, long summer days with not an ounce of humidity or precipitation.  Throughout the course of our five day stay in Noosa, a quaint beach town just north of Brisbane, we experienced a mere 30 minutes of sunshine.  However, it was going to take a lot more than a little (or a lot) of rain to hold us back from experiencing all that the “Sunshine” Coast had to offer.

First dingo spotting

I spent my first full day in Noosa walking along the Coastal Trails of Noosa National Park.  A six kilometer stretch connecting numerous sandy white beaches together, it offers a spectacular view of the water and many of Australia’s famous water sports.  Not only has Noosa become somewhat of a surfer’s paradise, but also the newest sport of paddle boarding has taken off as quite the rage.  Along my trek I spotted my first wild koala, grazing along the coastal eucalyptus trees, and a school of dolphins jumping in and out of the water for a little play time.  Truly a treat to go for a stroll and run across this wildlife!
Our full day trek took us to Fraser Island, the largest sand island in the entire world.  We hopped on a fifteen minute ferry ride across the sharkiest waters in all of Australia.   I’ve never taken the parental advice of “keeping all arms in the car” as serious as this journey across the land of the great whites.  We arrived on land with all of our limbs and hit the beach.  Not for a swim mind you, as we had no desire to recreate the thrilling Jaws scenes, but for a drive along the sandy shores of 70 Mile Beach.  As the rain continued to pour, the beach ride provided a thrill equivalent to that of a roller coaster—unexpected drops, turns and screams.  After the beach ride and walk through the rainforest in our raingear/swimsuits, we ventured to Lake McKenzie, a stunning lake with crystal clear blue waters and massaging sand on your feet.  Lake McKenzie was not only the prettiest lake I have ever swum in, but also the warmest J A perfect combination on a cold and rainy day. 
Shipwreck on Fraser Island
We spent our last day visiting the Gold Coast, just two hours south of the Sunshine Coast, for the famous water park Wet n’ Wild.  And oh boy, was it wet (both from the water park and the pouring rain)!  We were banging on the doors as they opened the park at 10 am and hit every single ride we could until 4 pm.  Not only did we take on the Black Hole, Kamikaze, Tornado and the Aqua Racer, I officially survived the scariest water ride of all time—the Aqua Loop.  Don’t let the subdued name fool you, this shit was crazy!  The party finished back at the apartment with a pizza dinner and a make your own ice cream sundae dessert J Definitely the best 7 year old birthday I’ve been to in years and years!  Off to Melbourne we go…

Saturday, December 4, 2010

The Whitsunday Islands- Snorkeling, Golf Buggies and Boats

Crossing our fingers to escape the rain that seemed to be following us around Australia, we landed on Hamilton Island, one of the 74 Whitsunday Islands along the eastern coast and Great Barrier Reef of Australia.  The island is small enough that automobiles are not allowed on the island, only the all functional golf buggy!  Fresh off our go cart racing, I was anxious to get behind the wheel again, especially the luxurious buggy.  Our apartment on Hamilton Island provided us with stunning views of the water, a massive grill and lots of bird visitors! Although unable to find a turkey anywhere on the island, Tim and Megan cooked a fabulous Thanksgiving dinner—lamb on the grill, grilled vegetables, corn on the cob, green beans and scrumptious mashed potoatoes.  Although I missed my family from home a great deal, it was such a treat to be able to still to be with family on this special holiday!  We all had so much to be thankful for as we went around the table and definitely toasted to those who were not with us.

Just an example of a view from our boat

After a fabulous few days on land, we hopped on a chartered yacht to explore the Whitsunday Islands by boat.  For four days and three nights we did nothing but snorkel in full stinger gear, walk along white sandy beaches, fish off the back of the boat, read trashy novels and eat meal after meal.  The white sandy beaches take your breath away, as does the almost fake looking blue color of the water.  Although we only saw a portion of the 2000 kilometer Great Barrier Reef, the stunning variety of coral and sea life takes your breath away.  After an introductory sailing lesson and three fabulous nights of being rocked to sleep, I can say that this is definitely something I would love to do again in my life!

The Ultimate Australian Treehouse and Wildlife

Hmm...we're staying in a treehouse? I'm not sure about you,  but when the idea of a treehouse comes into my mind I don't often think of it as able to accomodate 6 people, 7 duffle bags and a lot of energy.  However, as we pulled up to my first ever lodge treehouse in the Atheron Tablelands my mouth dropped.  It was spectacular! Not only did it have plenty of room for all of us, but the beds were equipped with electric blankets and the birdfeeders filled with seeds for lots of visitors! For four days and three nights we immersed ourselves in the Australian wildlife that call the Atherton Tablelands, just over the Great Dividing Mountain Range of Australia (and 4th longest in the world!). Over the course of our three days in the Atherton Tablelands we covered miles of Australian inland, spent time in quaint Aussie villages and went on the search for many of Australia’s best known animals.  A few of the classic stories and incredible spots…

While driving through the rainforest, we came about many of the orange footed scrub fowls.  At first glance it looks like a delicious turkey ready to feast on for Thanksgiving, yet these are quite extraordinary animals.  After the female lays her eggs under a created mound of foliage, she deserts her young leaving the male in charge.  In fact a great decision, as the male uses his waddle (hangie throat thing) to regulate the temperature of the eggs to affect the gender of the fowl based on what the forest needs.  Although the orange scrub fowls once again proved the amazement of science, they had nothing on the endangered cassowary.  A massive bird, easily able to devour a human, the cassowary’s stunning colors and willingness to eat the forest fruit that no other animal will eat, makes it quite the addition to the rainforest.  Rangers claim that over 80% of the trees of Australia depend on the cassowary to disperse their seeds for survival.  We were lucky enough to have a personal cassowary visiting our tree house lodge.  Once we got the call that “Tui” had arrived for breakfast, we ran through the muddy rainforest wearing flip flops, pajama pants, anything we could find.  It seems like a reasonable act—however, the day prior we had discovered that the leeches in Australia like the blood sucking a little more than those of Borneo.  These babies suck blood as if we would be their last meal!  Blood was drawn on Tess, Hannah, Sam and I—a scar remains on the back of my ankle from the leech that just wouldn’t stop feeding on my deliciousness.  If you can believe it, the leech ordeal and full coverage of mud was completely worth it to experience this once in a lifetime cassowary sighting.

Platypus
Since my childhood I had been hearing of a somewhat anomaly of a creature—the platypus. With fur on its body, a duck bill, a long tail, the ability to detect prey by feeling electric field currents and a poisonous spur generously used by the males to sedate the lucky lady before mating, the world’s remaining playtpus’ are endemic to Australia.  One of only 2 egg laying mammals, the platypus leaves scientists in quite the conundrum of how to classify it.  We spent hours and hours looking for this elusive creature—along streams, creeks, platypus viewing centers and lakes.  Our guide accurately pointed out that “they are harder to find than the KGB or the CIA”, however while standing in the pouring down rain along knee high swamp grounds we were finally able to spot one gliding across the water.  Between my level of excitement, a foot death grip in the mud and their quick movement throughout the water, I was unable to obtain a quality shot of this monumental moment.  However, I have attached a photo of a platypus to give you an idea of why our search was so important!

Princess herself
Wallaby with her joey
Once we could cross the platypus off our list, we were on to the KK Mission—kangaroos and koalas, mate!  Proud members of the marsupial family, the kangaroos (and wallabies) carry their little joeys in their pouches.  Quite the little hoppers, these tame creatures will hop right on up to you in a desperate attempt for a little snack.  The kangaroos were cute and all but they had nothing on the koala.  Although our wild spotting of koalas would happen eventually, we couldn’t wait any longer--a stop at the Kuranda Koala Park was a must.  Living the ideal lifestyle, these balls of fur sleep for up to 18 hours a day; the other hours used for munching on eucalyptus leaves and cuddling J   The koalas in Kuranda claim to be quite the cuddlers and with a name like Princess, we thought we had found the premier cuddle partner.  All was well until Princess got a little itch on her arm, as she nestled into Hannah’s arms.  Instinctively she went down to nibble at the annoyance and confused Hannah’s soft skin with her own—CHOMP!  Yes, a koala bite.  “No worries!” the park ranger assured us.  “I will go run and get an ice pack”.  Within seconds she had returned with a bag resembling ice that Hannah immediately placed on her red wound.  “Just make sure to drop that bag off when you’re done sweetie.  It’s the frozen rats we feed the snakes.”  Hannah somehow remained calm despite the disgusting thought, but Megan nearly knocked me over as she bolted to the farthest possible position away from her daughter.  All of the Australians seemed like this was quite the norm—I’ll stick to the ice packs or the bag of frozen peas if I’m feeling real crazy, thanks!  Despite the biting incident, we all LOOOOVED these precious animals! It truly may be the only animal that is actually softer than their stuffed animal look-a-likes.
The bird whisperer herself
One of the incredible benefits of a trip like this is the opportunity to get to know yourself a little better.  Prior to this journey I would have never considered myself much of a bird watcher—in fact, to be honest, I thought of the intense birdwatchers as quite a unique breed of people.  Don’t get me wrong—I liked seeing a cardinal or a blue jay when they were near, but by no means would I go in search of any animal in the sky.  However, beginning in Borneo, I found myself looking high up into the trees as we walked in hopes to catch a glimpse of the spectacular colors of the tropical birds.  From the rainbow larakeets, cockatoos, or Australian king parrots, Australia does not disappoint in the vibrant plethora of birds species.  It doesn’t get much better than waking up in the morning with a cup of coffee and honeyeaters or king parrots munching on seed, making their morning calls into the trees.  In no time you can start calling me the Bird Whisperer!
Baby crocs galore!
After an intense few days of animal spotting, we hit the Australian International Go Kart track on the way towards our next destination.  A huge hit amongst the kids (and adults), we had a blast!  The fun continued as we visited the Cairns Night Zoo to spot the nocturnal animals of Australia and get a full blown Aussie Barbie.  Although the bush bonfire with kangaroos and the bush turkey hokey pokey were big hits, the main show of the night took place just feet outside the home of the estuarine crocodile, more commonly known as the salt water crocodile.  Salt water crocs can weight up to 1300 kilograms and measure in length up to 6 meters long.  As we watched this beast of a creature jump out of the water for a late night snack, I could easily imagine a body getting devoured in a matter of seconds.  My fear of these camouflaged and speedy creatures only intensified and will be on my mind with every step I take into a body of water in Australia!

Friday, December 3, 2010

Australia Part 1: Welcome to the Land Down Under

4 Mile Beach
As I sat in the airport waiting for the flight to depart for Darwin, our first stop in Australia, I realized I didn’t know much about the “land down under”.  The Crocodile Hunter, the one liner of “the dingo ate my baby” and Foster’s Beer was pretty much the extent of my knowledge.  After just a few weeks I’ve come to find out the local Aussies true feelings on the Croc Hunter, their utter distaste of Foster’s Beer, the tragic true story of the “dingo ate my baby line” and much more about the rich history of this country.  Australia, the 6th largest country in the world and home of 22 million people, was originally founded as a penal colony for all of Britain’s corrupt felons.  Over 80% of Australia’s unique flora and fauna can be found nowhere else in the world and the 10 most venomous/deadliest creatures call Australia home.
 As we got off the plane in Darwin at 3 am, it felt as if we literally stepped into an oven as the temperatures soared at 30° C/86° F and humidity that hit you like a wet blanket.  Darwin would be a quick stop with a goal to do as many loads of laundry as humanly possible and get our feet wet in the local Aussie slang.  I noticed many and jotted down a few to share, including the tendency to add “ies” to many normal words we use in every day speech.  Here are a few..brekkie may be my personal favorite J
  • “You’re a champion, mate!”—Nice work
  • “Sunnies” – sunglasses
  • “Brekkie” – breakfast
  • “Wowsa” –lame person
  • “She’ll be apples!” – it will be alright
  • “Chrissy pressies” – Christmas presents
After taking full advantage of our 36 hours in Darwin, complete with a crucial afternoon stop at Darwin’s wave pool, sunset viewings and a suitcase full of clean clothes, we were off to Port Douglas.  Located on the eastern coast of Australia, Port Douglas is the closest Australian city to the largest living thing in the world, the Great Barrier Reef.  With just a few steps from our apartment door you found yourself on 4 Mile Beach, a stunning never ending beach with a backdrop of Australia’s green covered mountains.  With the enticing water of the Pacific Ocean calling my name and my swim suit already on, I was ready to hop in. 
Cape Tribulation
“No, no, mate” the lifeguard said.  “We got stinger season!” It was in fact box jellyfish season on the eastern coast.  Although cute, little animals to look at, both the lifeguard and Bill Bryson’s book Down Under informed me that any contact with the little creature would kill you within seconds. However, never to turn away the eager tourists, the beach provides a small netted enclosed area to safely swim in.  I decided to stick to the walks along the beach, perfecting my bronze tan and riding my bike along the coast.  Although we were all loving the beach holiday life, we were ready to check out the area beyond Port Douglas.  Our bus arrived, seriously looking like a rock groups’ tour bus.  Immediately I knew this was going to be good.  Our first stop on the tour bus took us to the Daintree River to do our first crocodile spotting.  Mission accomplished—three crocodiles and all of our limbs intact when we returned.  After a walk through the Daintree Wet Tropic Rainforests and look out points over Cape Tribulation (one of first places Captain James Cook came across while discovering Australia for first time), an Australian ice cream stop was a necessity.  None of that cookies n’ cream or rocky road here—but a once in a lifetime flavors of apricot, jackfruit, waddleseed (tastes like coffee) and black sapote (a fruit that tastes like chocolate pudding!).  Mossman Gorge, swimming, snake spotting and an Australian barbie were all to follow that afternoon.  After many trashy novels and lots of yummy home cooked meals, we were out of the city and on to the treehouse!

Lombok: The Closest Relative of Paradise Island

Fresh pineapple lollipop to help
ease the pain of bites :)
A quick thirty minute flight from Bali, found us on the quaint island of Lombok, one of Indonesia’s 17,500 islands.  En route to our hotel, we were officially welcomed to the island by hoards of macaque monkeys eagerly anticipating handfuls of peanuts to be thrown from the car. Although not as unique as the proboscus monkey, they were still deliciously adorable! Originally only slated to stay here five nights, we extended our trip a few extra days as we could not manage to tear ourselves away from the picturesque sunsets, luxurious Oberoi Resort, warmth of the Indian Ocean and the plethora of spicy foods.  For 7 days I wore nothing but my bathing suit and sarong and read more than 6 books. Absolute perfection! Our one physical activity took us to the Gilli Islands for a day of snorkeling!  Every dive felt as if I were swimming in a world class aquarium or the movie “Finding Nemo”.  The vibrant colors of the parrot fish, clown fish and others were spectacular.  Our snorkeling skills were strong enough that our guide even showed us how to feed the fish underwater.  Literally, the fish were eating out of our hands.  As if the fish weren’t enough, the temperature of the Indian Ocean feels like a perfectly warm bath.  With all the excitement, I didn’t even realize that I had been stung by numerous little jellies! Ouch! No worries though, as one of our guides (KayKay) offered to ice down my arms and neck to reduce itching and swelling.  Now that’s customer service J
We spent our last afternoon in Indonesia sitting around the lobby for 4:00 tea and snack time (this group doesn’t miss a snack time) reminiscing about our highlights of our latest country.  As I reached for my next biscuit, a substantial rumble came over the entire building.  A moment of calm passed.  And once again the building began shaking.  As if surviving a volcano in Indonesia wasn’t enough, the nature gods thought we should try an earthquake too.  Yes, I experienced another natural disaster for the first time in my twenty six years—an earthquake. Although relatively minor, we definitely felt the shaking and many books fell from the library walls.  Indonesia provided us with stunning views, beautiful water, delicious food and a few natural disasters for good measure.  Off to Australia we go J  

Bali: Island of the Gods

Halloween Night
A few months ago my dear friend Erica and I spent a girls night out catching “Eat, Pray, Love” at the theater.  The only bright spot of the entire two and a half hours (that I wish I could get back) were the stunning scenes of the island of Bali. Well that and Javier Bardem!  If you are looking for me during holiday for the rest of my life, Bali would be a great place to start your search.  I had heard several friends and family talk of this gorgeous island and their desire to go back, I can now see why.  Correctly named the Island of the Gods, Bali wows you with its white beaches, soaring palm trees and crystal clear water.  We spent our first few days in Jimbaran Bay, a touristy scene full of lounge chairs on the beach and plenty of sarong shops.  Our first night we walked along the beach and settled on a dinner spot under the sunset, filled with fireworks, fresh fish and a local band serenading us with the variety of John Denver, Jack Jackson and the Beatles.  My first full day of paradise found me not far from the pool or beach at any time, with a beach read or newspaper in hand.  My farthest journey led me to a beach side masseuse for an hour long massage.  Not only was the price amazing for the time ($10 for an hour long massage), but also for the sound of waves crashing as the jasmine oil set in. 
My Balinese life :)
I continued to connect with my inner Balinese woman; as I accessorized with a jasmine flower and sarong at any opportunity and relished the nasi campur, Indonesian’s mixed rice dish full of satay, veg, egg and various sauces.  We took any opportunity to experience the Balinese culture, but also had an opportunity to bring a little of the American culture to Bali.  Our finally day in Jimbaran Bay fell on Halloween.  Hannah proposed a costume contest—a difficult task, as costumes would need to be created with only the items in our suitcase.  Very early on I chose the proboscis monkey, for anyone that has read my previous posts you understand the tribute to my new favorite animal.  However, due to a lack of tape it was quite difficult to create the distinguishing nose of the proboscis.  I opted for a traditional Balinese woman with a witch mask instead J It was apparent that I was quickly out done in the creative department for the contest.  Tim and Megan went with the classic couple costume of salt and pepper- Megan decked in the all black, Tim all white.  Hannah and Tess bumped up the abstract with their duo costume.  Together they made a “donut”- Tess dressed in all white with a pillow in her belly to make the dough, Hannah dressed in all brown to represent the nut.  Sam had the most difficult job of judging the affair.  Although a true winner was never established, the contest was a bit hit.  Megan had asked the hotel if they happened to have any costumes or Halloween candy upon our arrival to surprise the kids.  We had totally forgotten but an incredibly generous woman showed up at our villa with 6 bags of candy and 3 Halloween masks she had gone shopping for.  We explained and demonstrated the Halloween tradition of trick or treating and the woman genuinely seemed scared once we all passed around the masks.  She shook all of our hands and still slightly confused about this obscure tradition said “Congratulations and Happy Halloween!”  We enjoyed our Halloween dinner, and last night in Jimbaran Bay, with a backyard BBQ in our villa—fresh lobster, ahi tuna, pineapple and more on the grill.  Absolutely delightful and Halloween I will remember forever J
Sad to leave Jimbaran Bay, we hopped in a car to Ubud, the cultural and shopping mecca on the island of Bali.  We didn’t wait long to experience our Ubud culture as we stopped at a Batik fabric painting shop, wood carving and silversmith en route.  Surrounded by rice terraces, vibrant red heliconia plants and a calm flowing river, The Four Seasons Resort of Ubud may have been the prettiest landscape of any hotel I have ever had the pleasure of staying at.  So spectacular in fact that it took a royal cremation ceremony to tear ourselves apart from the luxury and scenery of our stellar hotel.  .  Not only did we witness a cremation ceremony, but the late king of Ubud’s cremation ceremony.  Declared a national holiday, the procession included thousands of mourners and hundreds of volunteers ready to make the long trek to the river to dispose of his ashes.   The preparation of the pyre alone takes ninety days; an understandable feat once you see the 80 foot pyre and 35 foot white bull used to transport the body to the pyre. Never in my life have I been so jammed back together with people in such immense heat.  However, it was a once in a lifetime spectacle that I will remember forever.  
Mustache White Water Rafting Shot
For another view of the incredible landscape, we hit the Ayung River (meaning “beautiful one”) for a morning of white water rafting.  After our paddle mustache photo op, we overloaded the raft and began our journey down the river amongst the engraved rock walls, picturesque waterfalls and Tess’ screams for everyone to STAY IN THE BOAT!  A rational concern as every few meters our guide warned us of a “Boom Boom” which meant that in just a few seconds we would be colliding with a large volcanic boulder, surely to leave our butts and hips sore for days.  We encountered more “Boom Booms” on this river than I ever care to encounter again, but it was definitely a stunning way to see the internal landscape of the “Island of the Gods”. 
For many of you that know me, it is no surprise that checking out the Balinese dance scene was a must do to truly get a feel for the culture.  We arrived at a large outdoor theater at 9 am for the dance performance, a little earlier than I am used to busting out my moves.  Just a minute after nine, the show began as the dancers emerged from the decorated doors.  Definitely a little different than my dance moves or the ones I see monitoring junior high dances, yet I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the costumes and the portrayal of the popular tale of good versus evil spirits in all of us.  Our last night in Bali ended with a festive meal at Naughty Nuri’s, the hottest spot in town on Thursday’s for a BBQ ribs dinner with yummy cocktails and a bustling atmosphere J

Friday, November 5, 2010

Yogyakarta: Post Volcanic Eruption

Mendut Temple by daylight
With many of our outdoor activities cancelled due to Mt. Merapi’s largest eruptions in a century, we signed up to experience the indoor Indonesian cultural experiences of meditation and palm reading.   A Hindu temple graciously opened their doors to Tim, Megan and I to witness the monks chant, as well as take part in our own personal meditation time.  The monks were unfortunately away, which allowed more time for the three of us to work on the skill of meditation.  We grabbed our mats, lit the incense and left ourselves alone in silence to meditate on our thoughts.  Let’s just say that is definitely a skill I need to work on, as I focused more energy on hearing Tim’s knees crack and the bird chirp rather than reaching enlightenment.  The following morning the kids and I were greeted by a local fortunate teller from the nearby village.  My palm had only been read once in my life (for $1.00 at a carnival nonetheless)  and I hadn’t  remembered any of the details.  I sat and listened as she predicted incredibly prosperous futures for my three fabulous cousins.  I was nervous as I took the hot seat in preparation to hear the answers to some of life’s biggest questions.  Seeza asked no questions of me as I sat down before her—not my age, career, length of our travels, nothing. 
[SPOILER ALERT! Do not continue reading if you do not want to know what happens in my life!]
Seeza wasted no time as she uttered her first word “WOW!”; a bit unsettling as I wondered if it was a good sort of WOW or a bad sort of WOW.  Fortunately, it was in response to my three fortune lines with a plethora of branches—a sure guarantee at a life full of good fortune.  I couldn’t agree more, as I feel that this whole trip must be due to a long fortune line!  At ease with the knowledge of a fortunate life ahead, Seeza went on to the children line.  Although I didn’t need a fortune teller to inform me of the next bit of information (being a Terry woman is certainly enough), Seeza was ecstatic at the certainty of twins in my future.  Seeza believes four children ahead, with my second birth being twins.  The language barrier prevented me from informing Seeza that I’ve always been given the advice that once they start coming in two’s, YOU STOP!  Seeza started to laugh once she reached my love line, a very similar reaction when I think about my love life at the moment J It was my turn to be elated as the news came that there are three potential men in my life wanting to marry me, one of which I have not yet learned of their feelings.  She spent quite some time on my love line, informing me that I am very confused about a certain man in my life.  Upon further investigation, she not only gave me his correct initials, but also a description of his looks and assured me that when I return from my travels I need to consider this relationship.  My jaw dropped at her accuracy and pleaded her to continue.  My career line was the next stop on the palm reading circuit.  Once again her accuracy freaked me out as she informed me that I am at a crossroads in my career, as I in fact am contemplating my next step professionally when I return.  Seeza believed that I should stay at my current employer when I come back, as I am there for a reason she could not articulate.  Well noted! Seeza went on to diagnose me with good health, although she pleaded me to eat more fruit.  As I got up from the mat thanking her repeatedly, it left me with many things to think about for the remainder of my journey.
Mount Merapi erupting from the airplane
We finished our stay in Yogykarata, relishing in the luxury of the Aman hotel—our own private pool, stunning grounds and incredibly friendly staff.  As we drove to the airport, Mount Merapi continued erupting.  Somehow we were allowed to depart on a plane to Bali.  Only later would we realize how fortunate we were, as not only the volcano continued to erupt, but all surrounding airports have been closed for the last few days! Off to Bali we go..