Vietnam: Hanoi , February 21st-23rd

Traffic in Hanoi

Taking into account the tragic history and stunning scenery, Vietnam has been a place I’ve been looking forward to this entire trip.  We flew from Kuala Lumpur to Hanoi, the capitol and second largest city of Vietnam.  As I handed the customs officer my passport, I could only wonder about his thoughts as he noticed the US flag on the cover.   I had no idea how the Vietnamese viewed Americans today and this was my first test.  The customs officer smiled at me, stamped my passport and I was at the baggage claim within seconds.  After a one hour drive from the airport, we arrived at the Sofitel Metripole Hotel, right in the heart of the old French quarter.  Many buildings remain from the French colonization (1859-1954), most of which have been restored into embassies, hotels and quaint shops.  After a quick freshening up, we hit the streets of Hanoi.  As I crossed my first street, I realized it would be a miracle if I left Hanoi with all limbs, ten fingers and ten toes.  The insanity of the traffic is like nothing I have ever seen in my entire life! Motor bikes and cars jostle for space on the two lane streets,--crossing into each others lane, continuously honking and not slowing down a bit for pedestrians.   You would think that the sidewalk would be your safe haven, yet motor bikes drive out of stores, alleys and onto the sidewalk to join you.  I poked my head into numerous silk and antique shops, but ultimately couldn’t resist the bargain of a $4 USD pedicure.  I splurged and opted for the $5 pedi with nail art, because if you don’t do it in Vietnam, when the hell will you?  

Hanoi streets

Following our nail salon excursion, we couldn’t wait any longer until we tried the Vietnamese famous pho—spicy chicken noodle soup.  Accompanied with Vietnamese pancakes and rice paper rolls, our first meal in Vietnam was a hit!  In order to clear our minds for the walk home, Megan and I downed a bottle of Vietnam rice wine.  Definitely the best solution, as a calm came about me as I crossed chaotic streets.  Day one in Hanoi was a definite success.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

I awoke day two ready for a noodle breakfast and a day with our guide Long learning as much as humanly possible.  Our first stop was the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, an enormous complex to honor the controversial Ho Chi Minh.  Endearingly referred to as “Uncle Ho” by many Vietnamese, Ho Chi Minh was the founder of the Communist party, the person to declare independence in 1954 from both France and Japan and the first president of Vietnam.   Within the large granite structure inspired by Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow, you walk into a dark room and your eyes are immediately drawn to Ho Chi Minh’s preserved body within a glass case, with dim lights shining on his face.  Russian experts were brought in after his 1969 death to preserve the body to boost the morale of the troops during the war.  The complex is intensely guarded by crisply white uniformed officers every few meters; many of which did not think highly of me, as my bag was searched multiple times and my arm grabbed in order to not stare at Ho Chi Minh’s body too long.  Megan was convinced they just liked to touch me, but I must say it was a bit unnerving!  Guards enforce people to walk in two silent lines, with hands straight down at their sides, in addition to covering any bare skin.

Presidential Palace

House on Stilts

Behind the mausoleum, lies the bold yellow Presidential Palace from the French rule of 1900-1945.   Vietnamese history and our guide informed us that Ho Chi Minh refused to live in this yellow montrocity due to its grandeur--opting to build a two room traditional house on stilts on the grounds next door.  Masses of people queued to get a look into HCM's humble abode and photograph his famous work space.  Following the HCM complex, we headed to the Temple of Literature, the first university of Hanoi built in 1070.  One of the few buildings that survived the war, the school's ornate decorations and respectful throne seat for the teacher left me thinking about the architecture designs in my future classrooms.  

With a jam packed morning, we were anxious for the Vietnamese "fish hotpot" lunch at Cha Ca La Vong.  As we sat down, our waiter brought us a laminated sheet of paper that read "1 DISH ONLY-FISH..AND BEER".  I like a place that makes your decision a little easier--so I graciously welcomed the famous Bia Hanoi beer to cut the burn of the fish hotpot dish! Absolutely delicious.  We walked off the excessive beer calories at the Museum of Ethnography, a conglomeration of artifacts from all fifty four of the ethnic minorities throughout Vietnam.  Fish baskets, ornately woven wedding gowns, Hmong houses, hundred year old pottery and more. 

We found ourselves standing outside the Hoa Lo Prison, known by many Americans sarcastically as the Hanoi Hilton due to the miserable conditions.  Originally built by the French to house Vietnamese political prisoners, it later provided the North Vietnamese a prison to house American prisoners of war.  Although much of the original prison is gone, a museum containing photographs and several original 5 foot x 3 foot cells remain, including John McCain's.  McCain was shot down in Truc Bach Lake in Hanoi and later transferred to Hoa Lo, where he was imprisoned for several years.  I am still formulating so many thoughts on the images I saw within these walls. 

Hanoi Hilton

After a day filled with new information and heavy emotional material, we winded down with a cycle taxi tour of Hanoi.  Well...we thought it would be a relaxing journey.  Instead, I found myself discussing my will with my bike partner, Sam.  With the absence of street lights and continual automobile/motor bike honking, I closed my eyes for the majority of the trip! I opted for a night of relaxing in the hotel room, googling my multitude of new questions on the Vietnam War and beginning to digest all that I had seen that day.